Waistcoat Research from the V&A

Over Christmas I visited the V&A Museum in London and was able to look at some period waistcoats in person. I was amazed by the level of tiny floral details and the beautiful intricate embroidery that was included on the period waistcoats.

This waistcoat shape was made in France between 1750-1759 and was displayed in the Wolfson Gallery. The needle work was done first on two lengths of fabric in this case silk and then it would be taken to a tailor to make up into the final waistcoat.

"The stamp seen on the inside of the lower right edge reads ‘Custom House / SEIZED DOVER / GR II’, indicating that this is contraband – a French waistcoat shape apprehended during an attempt to smuggle it into England during the reign of George II (1727–60). For most of the 18th century, imported French silks and laces were taxed heavily, in order to protect British textile industries. Smuggling of these and other taxable goods was rife through all levels of society; customs officials at British ports searched very carefully and seized any contraband items. Articles confiscated in this manner were usually burned, so the survival of this beautiful but forbidden object is indeed remarkable."

The above waistcoat was not on display at the time of my visit however I came across it in the V&A online archive it was made in France between 1775-1785 and pink was a popular choice for men's wear at the time "On this example, machine-made net has been appliquéd to the pink silk and embroidered around the edges."