Exploring Dye

dye room code of practice.doc

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Fabrics:

Fabrics that dye well

-Cotton

-Linin

-Viscose

-Jute

-Wool

-Cashmere

-Polyester

-Nylon

-Yarns in hanks

Fabrics that cant be dyed in the dye room

-Acrylic

Synthetic Dyes:

Generally use the Dylon Dyes as they are a trusted brand, most dye samples will be done in pans of varying different sizes, for larger pieces of fabrics bins/vats are available as well as dying fabric in the washing machine. To achieve the above sample I dipped either side in different dye pot this created a smooth ombre effect.

Below are the standard measurements used for preparing the solution.

Standard 1:250 solution Weigh and dissolve 2g of dye into 500 ml of water.

Dilute 1:2500 solution The 1:2500 solution is just a diluted solution of the 1:250 Pipette 20 ml of 1:250 sol and add 180 ml of cold water

Natural Dyes:

Natural dyes can come from varies different plants animal and minerals. Although in contrary to popular opinion natural dyes can not always be better for the environment and it is important to consider the below environmental factors before using particular natural dyes.

Sourcing & Production

* What machinery/equipment is used in this process?

* What ingredients/chemicals/minerals used in this process?

* Where do they come from?

* What roles do th

e ingredients preform, what are their properties?

* What are the steps taken in using this process?

*Are there mechanical/electronic or manual processes involved?

* What are the limitations to manufacture?

Ethical & Environmental

* What happens to the excess dye/contaminated water at the end of the dying process?

* How do the dyes and assistants effect the environment if released into the water system?

* How does the manufacture of the dyes, effect the environment?

* Are there any places in the world that are bigger offenders of environmental pollution and why?

* What is the working conditions like for the dye person?

* What are the differences between natural dying and conventional chemical based dyes?

* Are there any sustainable practices that designers or manufactures are implementing?

* How colour fast is the dye, how long will the colour last in relation to light and washing?

* Does consumer habits affect the sustainability of the dyed fabric i.e. washing?

* Do the dyes and assistants travel long distances from supplier to dyer?

Cultural & historical impact

* How long has the process been in use?

* Is the process or ingredients linked to a particular people or country? Has this changed over time?

* Has the use of the process caused an impact on the design of products throughout history?

* Has the use of the process caused an impact on the way people live?

Rust Dyes:

Rust dye techniques can be achieved with pretty much any nail staple or pin and white vinegar different objects can create different patterns and the way you lay them on the fabric will have an effect too. The below samples where created using a metal tray, nails and staples. The top sample in the second photo was created using a water and flour paste on the fabric.

Resist Dye Techniques:

-Batik

-Gutta and painting

-Flour and past crackle

-Shibori

Shibori is a dying technique from Japan, literally meaning to wring, squeeze or press it involves manipulating the fabric in various ways such as twisting, binding, clamping, folding or pleating. To achieve the below samples I stitched, wrapped and tied together areas of the fabric to experiment with the patterns that it would create, I used Natural dye to dye these samples and then after went in with a chemical to create a reaction and change the colour in certain areas.

Ice Dying Technique:

Ice Dying works by laying the fabric over a metal rack and placing ice cubes on top being sure to cover all areas of the fabric. Dye powder is the sprinkled on top and the ice is left to melt and seep through the fabric.

Dye Terminology:

Fastness is the term used to describe how well a dye stays attached to the fibre while under stresses, which could cause colour loss i.e. washing, detergents, light, perspiration, dry cleaning, chlorinated water, physical movement / rubbing, heat or sea water.

Hank is a coil, loop or bundle of yarn or other material.

Scouring or Degumming refers to the washing of cloth or yarn, in order to free it from impurities and gums. These may be present due to the natural oils produced by the plant/animal, or due to the manufacturing process. Impurities such as these can affect the way in which dye is absorbed by the fibres, resulting in an undesired patchy effect.

Discharge in terms of the print process refers to using a ‘print paste’ which when steamed takes out the colour of the cloth.